Portions of these instructions were written by Skeorx13 of ScionLife.
So your handle just snapped off in your hand now what?
This is a very common Scion tC problem. Fortunately it is easy to get quality parts and instructions. Just get your handle here, and follow the instructions below.
First you will need to get the new and improved Genuine Toyota Handle here
1. First things first, removing the cover of the inside of the hatch. You have to pop off the light gray plastic liner first to get to all the screws/fasteners off of the darker main piece. This is in three sections that are loosely connected together. You should be able to pry it off pretty easily. Once that is off there are 2 screws and 2 fasteners you need to remove.
2. The fasteners are a PAIN to get out. If you have a thin Flathead screwdriver you’ll want to use that to wrench them out. They’re made of plastic and flex a lot so it’s hard to get them out. You’ll need to try to stay calm or you may break them in a fit of rage. I’d also recommend either coating the screwdriver’s shaft in something rubber or cloth or it’ll scratch up the paint (although this is covered for the most part by the light gray plastic). Be Very Careful not to scratch anything. The screws come out easy enough, just be sure not to go overboard with it because there is enough resistance to strip the heads a bit if you aren’t careful.
Next is pulling the dark plastic off. The handles on the plastic help to pry it off a bit. If you need help grab a plastic wedge of some sort and shove it in between the metal frame and the plastic to help pry it apart. Makes a lot of loud popping noises. Just keep an eye out that it doesn’t whack you in the head when you’re pulling it off, and try to brace the metal frame with one hand so you aren’t just pulling the gate closed on yourself.
3. Unscrew the four nuts. If your Socket wrench isn’t long enough you may have to fit a 10mm attachment onto the nuts first and then kind of hover the socket extender in the attachment and wrench it off that way until the screw post is short enough to lock the attachment and extender together properly for the rest of the way. Pay close attention while unscrewing them so that you don’t drop the nut inside the metal frame of the door. Once you got those off, you can pull the garnish off from the outside but it won’t come off all the way. You have to push the little rubber cup holding the hatch handle button wiring out of the metal frame or it’ll dangle down and possibly scratch up the outside of your hatch, so be careful. Make sure you unhook the wiring harness beforehand as well.
4. Now take out your nice new hatch garnish, feed the wiring harness through the large circled hole and squeeze the rubber cup into place there. Then feed the bolts through the holes in the metal, taking care to maneuver the wiring out of the way so the lights fit into the recesses of the garnish. Keep an eye on the rubber seal around the garnish edges so it doesn’t fold over or get pushed out of the way while you’re putting it into place. You’ll probably want to hold the garnish in place with one hand while ducking under the hatch and carefully screwing the nuts back onto the bolts inside (loosely). Get all the nuts on before trying to tighten them down so you can make sure the garnish is seated right. Also make sure you don’t over tighten the nuts.
5. These instructions are incredibly detailed, and make it sound a lot harder than it actually is. For most people with a good mechanical aptitude the job should take less than an hour.
Do you have a clicking or ticking noise coming from the lower right side of your dashboard?
This is a common issue with all Nissan Titan or Armada models from the 2004 to the 2014 model. What happens is the motors begin to go bad, creating the annoying noise behind your dash.
When the actuators begin to go out, you will also lose your heating and cooling blend door, or the ability to adjust floor to defrost.
There are a total of four actuators on the airflow box under the dash.
Looking at the diagram below, you can see that three of the actuators with the red shading are exactly the same and are interchangeable with each other. There is one actuator that is different and that is the one shaded in blue, it is not interchangeable with the rest of the actuators.
Replacing your worn-out actuators will solve the problem with the ticking in the dash.
These are pretty easy to replace yourself and most of our customers have them installed within about 30 minutes to an hour.
You can buy the actuators Here
What is the purpose of a neutral safety switch on the vehicle?
A neutral safety switch is and important safety feature that is present on every vehicle manufactured in the past 20 years or so.
The purpose of the switch is to keep your car from starting if your transmission is not in either neutral or Park.
This is an important safety feature because if you try to start your car when the transmission is in drive or the car is in gear, your car could lurch forward, hitting another vehicle, or person.
When the neutral safety switch goes bad on a car or truck, the car will not start. If you have checked your battery, starter, and everything else, and your car will not start it will be a good idea to check your neutral safety switch.
Neutral safety switches is can be located in a few different spots. The most common spot is on the transmission itself, this will usually be a threaded sensor that threads into to the side of the transmission, or a box linked to the transmission linkage on the outside of the transmission.
On some vehicles these are located inside the steering column, or inside the floor shifting mechanism.
Neutral safety switches can be found for a reasonable price, online. Usually you can install them yourself, and save having to pay a mechanic to do a simple job.
Why is the post office delivering UPS and Fedex Packages?
So…you are waiting on a package, that you expected to come FedEx or UPS, that is what you paid for after all, but instead of being delivered to you, it now shows it was delivered……. to your local post office.
What the heck is going on? and where is the package.
There is a ton of confusion about this, and even the major shipping companies websites don’t seem to explain it well.
I’m going to explain to you, how this works, so you can understand and make an informed decision the next time you buy from a retailer, and choose your shipping option.
First things first.
There are several different types of shipping options.
For Fedex there is FedEx ground, and FedEx air. With Both of these options your package travels 100% within the FedEx network. There is no post office involvement.
For UPS there is UPS ground, and the UPS air services. These also keep your package 100% inside of the UPS network, and there is no post office involvement.
Fedex Smart post and UPS sure post.
FedEx offers shippers an option called smart post, and UPS offers an option called sure post.
These options are a hybrid shipping option, the package travels on the UPS or FedEx network until it gets to the town that is going to be delivered. Once it gets to this town, it is delivered to the post office, and the post office makes the final delivery.
The smart post and sure post options are much cheaper for the shipper. When the shipper uses either one of the services, they pay a lot less. The shipper does not have to pay residential, area delivery fees, or fuel surcharges. This can add up to quite a bit of savings for the shipper, especially with a high volume of shipments.
The Problem (slow service)
Here in lies the problem. Many retailers are charging for the genuine FedEx or UPS service, but are providing the smart post or sure post shipping. This is where the consumer gets the short end of the stick.
Your package will most likely move speedily throughout the process until it reaches your local post office. Once the package reaches your local post office, the tracking completely stops, and it may take a few extra days for you to receive the package. During this time your package is completely limbo. Nobody at the post office will be able to help you, and UPS and FedEx will tell you that the responsibility stops once the package reaches the post office. So you’re left waiting on a package that you are not sure where it is, or when or if it will arrive.
The post office is in no hurry to deliver these packages. They are making very little from FedEx and UPS to deliver these packages, and there is no incentive to deliver these on time. Usually around the holidays you can experience a delay of one to three days. Other times of the year the could be delivered the same day or an additional one or two days before you see your package.
I have heard, and I cannot confirm this rumor. The rumor is That the post office has a tub or a bin, that they put these packages in. They will only deliver the packages when the bin gets full. This saves them from having to make multiple trips. When a bin for one area fills up, then they will deliver the packages, hence the extra days for delivery. I have heard this from several people at the post office, but cannot confirm this.
How to make sure, you are getting what you pay for when you select UPS or FedEx service.
If the retailer offers an option, of FedEx, or UPS services, but does not specify if this is the genuine FedEx or UPS service, you may want to ask them exactly what you are getting.
Many retailers will offer the sure post or smart post service at a discounted rate, if you’re willing to wait 5 to 7 days to get your package, this is a great option. However don’t let a retailer do a bait and switch on you, and charge you for the full price FedEx or UPS service, then switch you to the cheaper post office service.
Note: many people online, or claiming that UPS and FedEx are overloaded, and are handing off the packages to the post office to deliver them because they are too busy to do it themselves. This is not the case, the choice in the shipping relies entirely in the hands of the retailer.
When the service is used it is not the fault of UPS or FedEx. It is the fault of the retailer, and you will need to contact them directly.
I hope that this will help you, to understand the services, as I have been frustrated by them myself.
How To Install An Emblem Or Nameplate on your Car or Truck The Right Way
Automotive emblems are the identity for your vehicle. Without the emblems your vehicle is just not the same.
There are many reasons that you may have to replace a genuine emblem or a nameplate on your vehicle. The most common reason is that for some reason people like to steal emblems off of vehicles, we don’t understand it either, but they do. Other reasons could be the carwash tore them off, or you just want to replace them because they become faded and dull over time.
Whatever the reason is there is a right way to go about putting them on so that the emblem lasts, fits right, and does not come off again.
When seeking out an emblem to add to your vehicle, or replacing one be sure to buy the genuine part. Genuine parts last much longer, and look better for many more years than the Cheap Chinese imitations.
Here are the simple steps that you can perform to be sure your emblem is attached correctly.
What you want to have on hand before you start.
Step 1 First you will want to remove the old emblem. The Easiest and most effective way will be to use a heat gun. A Heat gun will melt the adhesive on the old emblem allowing you to pull it off. Just be careful when using a heat gun not to leave its sitting on the paint to long, or you could damage the paint. Just use it long enough to soften the glue to remove the old emblem. We don’t recommend prying the emblem off with a knife or with a sharp tool as you could scratch the paint. Note Some emblems have pins on the back that go through holes into the sheet metal. If this is the case for your vehicle on the inside of the sheet metal there will usually be some type of nut holding on from the other side. Be sure to save these nuts because you will need them later to reattach the emblem.
Step 2 After removing the old emblem you will have some adhesive still left on the paint of the vehicle. You will want to have some emblem adhesive remover, also known as Acrysol on hand. This chemical is readily available at most auto parts stores. Acrysol removes glue from painted surfaces, but does not affect the paint.
Step 3 You next want to clean the area where you will be putting the new emblem very well with rubbing alcohol. The purpose of doing this is that it will remove all the old wax and other residue that would keep the emblem from sticking permanently to the surface.
Step 4 If the emblem is being placed in an area that requires it to be level, what you want to do is use a bubble level and mark the area using some painters tape exactly in the area at the emblem is going to be attached.
Step 5 If needed get your Emblem adhesive Ready. Many emblems come with adhesive already attached. This makes it very easy as you just peel and stick. However, Not all emblems come with adhesive. Once again your local auto parts store is your best friend. While you are buying the adhesive remover , go ahead and pick up a tube of emblem adhesive. Emblem adhesive is similar to superglue but not exactly. It is a clear type of glue that is made especially to bond plastic to painted metal.
Step 6 Attach your new emblem. If your emblem has adhesive on it from the factory simply peel and stick the emblem. Be sure to put it on the level line that you marked with painters tape earlier. If your emblem does not have adhesive and does not have pins put a thin line of emblem adhesive around all the edges of the emblem where it will meet the painted surface. A little bit goes a long way, do not coat the mating surface of the emblem with a thick amount of adhesive. The reason for this is that if you do this, once you push the emblem onto the vehicle that he’s will spread out the sides and will not look right and is very hard to clean off once the emblem is stuck on.
Step 7 Hold the emblem perfectly straight until the adhesive dries. Most emblem adhesive dries very fast and should not have to hold more than a minute or two in most cases.
Note If your emblem has pins on the back. There are two ways to attach the emblems this way. Some vehicles use pins on the back only to attach the emblem. If your emblem has pins that come off the back and go through the sheet metal of the car then you will need to unscrew the nuts from the back of the pins on the old emblem and pull the emblem off that way. You reattach the new emblem same way. Just be sure you kept the nuts from the first step and use the same nuts to reattach the new emblem by just turning the nuts to cut grooves into the plastic of the posts of the new emblem. For added security you can also add a very thin layer around the mating surface of the new emblem and the painted surface.
Step 8 You can then pull off the painter’s tape and cleanup the area around the emblem.
That’s it it’s really easy to do, you’ll have your car or truck looking great in no time!
All About Car and Truck Front License Plate Brackets
When it comes to displaying your license plates, the correct part, strength and sturdiness is key. Many things can cause a license plate bracket to go missing getting into a fender-bender, and aggressive carwash, or the neighborhood thief.
Luckily getting a new License bracket is not really expensive. You would think that a license plate bracket is very simple, that is quite far from the truth. There are many companies from China selling cheap universal license plate brackets. You do not want to get one of these brackets and the reason why is it will not fit right and definitely does not look good on your front bumper, check out the reviews of these brackets and these companies you’ll see what we are talking about.
How to select the right bracket.
Always buy the Genuine Bracket
You will save yourself lots of time, and lots of headaches. When you put a generic one-size-fits-all bracket on your car you have to drill in spots that are not supposed to be drilled and could cause more harm than good.
Using the genuine bracket you know that the curvature of the bracket will be correct for the front bumper. This means that the bracket will sit flush against the curves of the bumper correct it cannot be easily torn off.
Most license plate brackets do not include hardware
There are two options that you can use for hardware. The first in the most simple is to just go down to local hardware store and get some self tapping screws. You can drill some pilot holes in the bumper and just use the self tapping screws to install it directly into the bumper.
The second option would be to go to a new car dealer and get the correct hardware. I would be cautious about this the reason being that they sell each piece of hardware individually. Usually when buying the hardware, from the dealership you will pay more than the price of the bracket for the hardware. Again this is a game that they play to get you to spend a ton of money for some nuts bolts or screws. If you have a small amount of technical skill you can find the correct balls that you need at a hardware store and do it yourself.
In order to install your license plates you should:
When installing a license plate, remember these simple tips to ensure you’re doing it correctly and avoiding a repeat performance. If you find that you are having trouble installing these on your own, make sure to take the job to a mechanic to ensure the correct installation.
If you have a damaged or missing chrome grille emblem on your Chevrolet Silverado from the years 2007- 2011 luckily installation is easy.
Although it looks intimidating when you look at it it’s really not that hard. Just follow these simple instructions on how to install the grille emblem.
Installation is super easy you will simply remove the old one by removing the nuts on the three pegs and squeezing the tabs to remove the old one. Be sure to save the nuts that are on the back of the round posts because you will reuse them.
Installation is just the opposite of removal you will push the emblem into the grill and the two white tabs should hold it on while you reinstall the speed nuts onto the round posts on the new emblem. Speed nuts attach by digging a group into the plastic of the round posts. You just turn them and they make their own grooves into the plastic. That’s it super easy to install!
The Original Problem
Do you have a 2008-2010 Honda Accord ? Is the visor falling down and obstructing your vision?
Unfortunately many Honda Accords in these years had this issue.
The original sun visors installed in these cars had a major problem. The visor will not stay up and it constantly falls while driving or running over a bump. Its not just your car, every Accord manufactured in these years has the same problem. The Visor Splits at the support, and begins to lose grip and begins to fall down.
We are selling The newest Genuine Honda visor that will not fall down, and will not split.
includes mirror with cover
matches your interior color exactly.
Comes sealed in Genuine Honda Packaging.
Factory Fresh Direct From Honda
This visor is super easy to install. It is just the two screws and a plastic cover and a plug. Very simple to install most people have these installed within just a few minutes. If you can turn a screwdriver and pop off a plastic cover and unplug and replug then you will have no issue with installing this visor.
So you have Lincoln MK X.
Spent a good chunk of change on this beautiful vehicle. But there’s one thing that’s missing. It is probably the one thing that can get you in more trouble than anything else.
If you are in a state or you plan on driving to a state where you must have a front license plate bracket, you could see the red and blue lights flashing in your rearview mirror. Most states have a hefty fine for not having a license plate bracket on the front of your vehicle.
Why risk it? You can get a brand-new genuine Ford license plate bracket for a small amount of money, especially compared to the price of the ticket that you get for not having it on your MK X.
The license plate bracket is not too difficult to install. You can install it using rivets or self tapping screws available at any hardware store.
If you have a 1999, 2000, 2001 Ford F2 50 or F3 50 with 7.3 L engine a single alternator you have probably either replaced or are about to replace your battery cable.
No matter how much you baby your truck, your battery cable will eventually fail.
Usually the problem starts with corrosion at the battery terminals and works its way up. If you are starting to notice corrosion or cable now would be a good time to change them before you get stranded. The cable is not hard to change. Simply a few plugs wires and bolts and you have the cable changed in just about 20 minutes.
You may have noticed that the battery cable for the trucks with the single alternator are much harder to find than with the dual alternator. We now have the cable available for purchase for the single alternator set up.
Please don’t hesitate to contact us if you need any help.